Cocos Keeling Islands are in Australian Territory situated 2750 kilometres northwest of Perth, Western Australia, the Cocos Keeling Islands (Cocos) are a group of coral islands that form two atolls. Only two of the 27 islands are inhabited – Home Island and West Island. Virgin Australia runs two flights each week from Perth, with stopovers at Learmonth (Exmouth) and Christmas Island with a flight time of around five hours.
Katrina and I elected to do two weeks on Cocos and split our fishing between the crew at Hello Backing who run their fishing program from Tuesday to Tuesday to connect with those weekly flights. We flew in on the Friday prior to our fishing package as I always enjoy a day or two to wind down and relax before the fishing starts and then arranged to fish a few days either side with local Cocos Malay flyfishing guide Mahammed “Azrin” Des.
Our home for the first four nights – https://www.thebreakerscocos.com.au
We stayed at The Breakers for four nights and really enjoyed it – our villa was well appointed and comfortable and was located within easy walking distance to the visitors Centre , general store and the Cocos Club 😉
With just 144 visitors at any one time at Cocos Keeling , it really is a special location and fishery that every fly angler should add to their wish or bucket list. And no visit would be complete with out visiting Home Island.
Home Island is the “home” of the Cocos Malay people, offering a cultural world only a short half hour ferry ride across from West Island. You should try and allow a day to visit the Museum and Visitor’s Centre to learn about the remarkable history of Cocos Keeling Islands and the war-time dramas that played out here, including Sydney’s defeat of the Emden in the Battle of Cocos which was the Royal Australian Navy’s first victory and the end to the Emden’s dominance in the waters surrounding the islands. ( source www. cocoskeelingislands.com.au ).
The Cocos Keeling Islands has a tiny local community of around 600 people. Despite mixed origins, the Cocos Malay people have achieved an identity of their own. Home Island has a small shopping precinct with oriental and western groceries, fishing gear, hardware and local products. When visiting, you are asked to respect the local culture and dress appropriately with your shoulders and knees covered at all times. Home Island is a short 20-minute ferry ride away from West Island, with ferries running six days a week.
No trip to the Cocos Keeling Islands would be complete with out visiting the Historic Oceania House. The 1893 federation style mansion offers a fascinating look at the Clunies-Ross dynasty, and offers visitors the chance to wander the halls as Queen Elizabeth II did on her visit in 1954. You can even book to stay in the luxury of this six bedroom historical house set on three acres adjacent to a ten acres botanic garden. The rooms are large with high ceilings, queen beds and all but 2 rooms have ensuites. Guests have access to a kitchen, grand ballroom (communal area), dining room, extensive library and an outdoor entertainment area. All of the Cocos Keeling accommodation options can be booked on-line here :- https://cocoskeelingislands.com.au/stay/accommodation/
The azure waters surrounding the Cocos Keeling Islands form one of the largest protected marine sanctuaries in the world, covering 467,054 square kilometres. With visibility at 25-30 metres on average, the crystal-clear lagoons offer a chance to get up close with blooming coral underwater gardens and makes for ideal sight fishing for species including bonefish, permit, triggerfish , bluefin trevally , giant trevally , barracuda, Māori wrasse etc. plus off shore species including yellowfin tuna , dogtooth tuna, wahoo and sailfish.
There are a number of boat ramps on West Island that Az and Rizan use to launch their Beastmaster Flats skiffs
Cocos Keeling Islands are one of the most stunning locations I have seen !
Az poling the flats
Mahammed “Azrin” Des , runs an Aussie built “Beastmaster” flats skiff and has a reputation for being a “Permit Master”, so that was the plan 🙂
But it’s hard to stay focused when there are so many BIG bonefish!
The flats at Cocos are vast and stunning !
I had genuine shots at permit every day – but permit are permit ……
We spent our last four nights at “Waved On Cocos” in their waterfront villa – which was wonderful and a fitting way to wrap up our stay !
This is the esplanade on West Island across the road from our accommodation at Waves on Cocos, and yes you can fish for bonefish , trevally and bumpies right there 😉
Back on the water on our last day – we really had glamour weather the entire trip – but a few storms had started to build and the last day started off wet 🙂
Az – has eyes like a hawk and he spotted a few BIG Cocos mud crabs on the flats which he caught for the family 😉
Fishing such a remote pristine fishery from a purpose built flats skiff with a guide who knows how to pole it only adds to the experience !
While I didn’t land a permit – I did have my share of opportunities…. I also landed some of the largest bonefish on average I have encountered anywhere – even when I really didn’t want them to eat my fly 😉
You can watch the full video of this trip here and book directly with AZ and Rizan at Chasing Tails via their Socials :-
- https://www.instagram.com/azs_island_flyfishing
- https://www.facebook.com/muhammadazrin.des.9
- https://www.threads.com/@chasing_island_tails
Cya’s Next adventure – Scotto 😉
